Video

Kendo 1986

1986

Heinz Mariacher: climbing in the eighties. Kendo was one of the first 8b's in Italy.

Rude boys

1987

In 1987 the Smith Rocks were a gathering place for the world's best climbers. Routes like "To bolt or not to be", "East face of Monkeyface", "Scarface" or "Rude Boys" represented the new standard of sport climbing in America.

Climbing San Nicolò

Il silenzio

Some scenes from the movie "Ritorno al silenzio"... an attempt to express how I visioned the future of climbing in the Dolomites. It's not about the grade, it's about what you feel...

Churning in the wake

Luisa Iovane climbing "Churning in the wake", Smith Rocks, Oregon, 1987

Luisa Via col Vento 2011

Luisa Iovane on Via col Vento, San Nicolò, Dolomites

Basic Instinct - Val S. Nicolò

I discovered and bolted this big overhang in 1988/1989. After a really close redpoint-attempt that failed beyond the last bolt (above the roof), I injured my finger on an other project and never came back. Twenty years later I offered "Basic Instinct" to Mario Prinoth, who in 2009 made the first repoint ascent, rating it 8b/c.

Strada privata

Luisa Iovane started climbing as an alpinist and had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolomites, many years before sport climbing, as we know it today, was invented. Later she was one of the first female climbers to redpoint 8a, and subsequently she became a top level competition climber. The movie shows her in 2009 on Strada Privata, 8a, Val San Nicolò, Dolomites.

Staying alive

Luisa Iovane climbing Staying alive 7c+, Valle San Nicolò - Dolomites
Camera: Heinz Mariacher